My mistake was reading this on my morning communte:
Seneca Klassen, co-founder of Bittersweet Cafe in Oakland, and now
in San Francisco and Danville, was given the touchy job of choosing the
chocolate-makers who will be featured at the Taste Pavilions, a
50,000-square-foot food exhibition at Fort Mason. Only five made the
cut - all from outside California.
Klassen said their products best met the Slow Food criteria of
"good, clean and fair," meaning that the chocolate is not only
delicious but is sustainably produced by workers who are fairly paid.
The chocolate also is expensive, about $50 to $60 a pound, Klassen
said. But Shawn Askinosie, whose Askinosie Chocolate of Springfield,
Mo., will be showcased at the pavilion, said he has no trouble selling
his bars in the Bay Area. In fact, this is his best market.
-- "Slow Food Nation Opens Friday in SF," SFChron, Aug 26, 08
And -- shocker -- I am not at all exercised about the pricey chocolate.
The excerpt above is just a taste of the whole article, in which people who make a lot of money peddling slow-food products to people with a lot of money all express confusion at the idea that some folks might find the whole slow-food movement to be, oh, I don't know, a tad precious and pricey for the rest of us peasants.
Y'all know I am a big fan of eating local and farmer's markets. And last night, for dinner, we had a thyme-roasted chicken (I grew the thyme) and heirloom tomato salad (I grew that too). So, in theory, we're right in the demographic sweet spot for this festival.
Except I find this kind of pedigreed eating to be completely offputting and staggeringly ineffective from a strategic perspective. It is super-easy to be all "Rah rah local food!" when you live here in the Bubble, because we live someplace with A) great, year-round growing weather, B) a wide variety of arable landscapes, and C) decent animal protein sources nearby. But these people nattering on about the honest purity of chocolate zucchini bread in which you've grown the courgettes and milled the whole-grain flour yourself are completely missing the bigger issues. Namely, that America's a big freakin' nation and some of it has nasty weather or inhospitable soil.
Oh, I long for the day that slow food types stop thrilling to the idea that eating local makes you a more thoughtful person and start thrilling to the idea that maybe, it should include boring practical things. Things like figuring out how to build local demand and support for greenhouses in chilly climates, and how to build those structures so they work reliably and provide fresh produce in January at competitive prices. Or things like persuading people that canning and freezing are ubiquitous seasonal activities, on par with fireworks on July 4th or fantasy football drafts in August. Or things like figuring out how people will eat locally after their crops have been devastated by a hurricane or early frost.
When the slow-food types stop saying things like "We need to go to the red states to people who celebrate traditional values." (Actual quote from the article! I KNOW!) and start working to address the practical realities of how we eat across the country, maybe I'll stop foaming at the mouth whenever I read articles like the one above.
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